The Swiss Lavaux region: A votre sante!
In the 11th century, Benedictine and Cistercian monks began planting vines and building retaining walls on the steep sun-drenched hillsides of the Lavaux region on the north shore of Lake Geneva. Today’s nearly 2000 acres of terraces in French-speaking southwest is Switzerland’s major wine-producing region and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Some of today’s winegrowers are 17th generation descendants of the lay people to whom the work was delegated. This breathtaking landscape between Lausanne and Montreux is a gourmet ‘s delight and a perennial magnet for poets and painters.
“The land of three suns” is sun-drenched from the sky, the reflecting lake, and the stone walls that release stored heat when temperatures drop. The steep slopes need a deep rooted grape like the Chassalas that comprises 90% of its foremost vintage, Dézaley.
Hiking and cycling trails with scenic picnic areas run right through the lush, green vineyards. The Lavaux-Express or yellow Train des Vignes let you sit back and enjoy the scenic ride.
Lake Geneva boats connect towns in Switzerland and France, and the classic Belle Epoque paddlewheeler Savoie offers Michelin-starred cuisine with the view.
We drank in the scenery as we sampled regional wines with local specialties like lake perch and char, papet vaudois, (leek and cabbage sausage), gateau á la raisinée, (fruity cake) and chocolate.
We stopped in villages like Onnens, where a lunch of hot cabbage, sausage and rosti at Au Bon Vin included the proprietor and waiter, Herr Kunst’s rendition of Ain’t She Sweet as he played his vintage recording.
We sampled wines like Cuvée Amandine, delicious with chocolate, at Vignoble Cousin in Concise.
For the widest selection of area wines—over 300– we stopped at Lavaux Vinorama, where local winemakers rent cubicles. The proprietor selects eight wines for tastings, or you can try the Enomatic machine that dispenses samples.
The night was spent at the Hotel Prealpina in picturesque Chexbres. To one side we overlooked the vineyards, villages, and lake from high atop the hill.
As the sun went down we had a beautiful view of sunset to the other side.