Lugano
Lugano, photographed from our window at the Hotel Walter

LUGANO, IN THE TICINO REGION OF SWITZERLAND


Switzerland, in the heart of Europe, is a crossroads of cultures. Germany is to the north, Liechtenstein and Austria are to the east, Italy is to the Southwest, and France is to the west and northwest. There are four official languages --German, French, Italian, and Romansch, a legacy left by Roman soldiers.

Lugano is in the canton of Ticino, the Italian-speaking region.


LUGANO AND GANDRIA, IN THE ITALIAN-SPEAKING CANTON OF TICINO

Lugano

We validated our Swiss pass at the train station across the street from Zurich’a airport.

In moments were headed for Lugano, south of the Alps, the Italian-speaking Swiss canton of Ticino.

This popular tourist destination on a lake by the same name is Switzerland’s third-largest financial center and the start of our Bernina Express experience.


Lugano

We arrived a day early to explore the  historic part of the city. 

We browsed the designer fashions and gourmet products in the Via Nassa and Via Pessina area,


Lugano

...and stopped at museums, art galleries,and  historic churches.


Lugano

We took a leisurely stroll along the tree-lined lakeside promenade.


Lugano Cathedral

With more time, we would also have taken the funicular up Monte Brè.

 We found a great city view from the terrace of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, enlarged after the epidemic in thanks to the Virgin.

It was redone in Baroque in the 17th century, and is now under renovation.

It is said that a church has existed here since the 5th century.


Lugano

What we found to be most fascinating of all was the church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, a simple structure on Lake Lugano built in 1499 for Franciscan monks.

People were brought here during the plague, and after the epidemic the walls were disinfected by painting with lime after hammering the walls so the lime would stick.


Lugano

When the lime was removed centuries later, intact early Renaissance masterpieces were revealed, albeit with a pitted appearance from this treatment.

These treasures include frescoes by Bernadino Luini, pupil of Leonardo, born near Lake Maggiore around 1480,


LuganoLugano

Lugano
Lugano from the boat

We were here to enjoy the Mediterranean climate and experience “dolce far niente”, a blissful idleness after our travels.

Our leisurely boat cruise to Gandria was included with the Swiss Pass.


Gandria
Gandria

The ride took us to Gandria, with a population of 200, where we made our lunch selections-lake perch,  ossobuco and polenta, and a Ticino merlot-- from a colorful menu at Ristorante Antico.  


Gandria perchGandria osso buco





Gandria menuGandria merlotGandria menu

Gandria

The view from Ristorante Antico's lakeside balcony was lovely. 


Swiss-Italian border

 Gandria, which is right by the border with Italy,  was once known for olive oil, silk, and smuggling.

Once isolated, it was connected to both Lugano and Italy in 1935 by a road and tunnels.




Museum of Swiss Customs

The Museum of Swiss Customs is just across the lake.


Gandria

We walked Gandria’s narrow labyrinth of cobbled lanes and climbed flights of stairs that scale the steep lakefront slope, passing a large stone, Sasso della Predescia. 

It was carved by early Celtic inhabitants, presumably for religious purposes.


Gandria

We continued to the medieval belfry and baroque interior of the 16th century Church of San Vigilio.




Gandria

It was constructed by Medieval Lombard master stoneworkers known as maestri comacini who had worked for the King of Spain and returned to the village in their later years.


The painting behind the altar of St. Virgilio being martyred is by the Torricelli brothers.


Gandria olives

The hillside Olive Tree Path from Gandria to Castagnola ...


 


Gandria Olive Tree Path

is marked with 18 panels describing the olive tree’s history, botany, cultivation, and products.


LuganoYou can follow it  back toward Lugano Parco Civico,...

William Tell
William Tell

the lakeshore promenade and statue of Swiss hero William Tell, and the flora and Ticinese sculpture of Belvedere Gardens.


The Bernina Express bus runs between Lugano and Tirano, Italy, where passengers take the Bernina Express train between Tirano, Italy and Chur, Switzerland.

For more on  this scenic train ride, see Notable Travels Bernina Express.

All material including photography appearing on these pages is copyrighted and may  be used only with written permission from Roger and Linda Fasteson.


© 2011 Notable Travels